BY ANNE TACHADO

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANNE TACHADO

SEPTEMBER 2, 2024

Warm, stifling air hit my face the moment we descended from the plane. This is it, my second jaunt to another Southeast Asian country. Coming from the Philippines, it would have made sense to visit your neighbors first, however I only started last year. Even with limited visits, I’m beginning to understand the allure of this region for many travelers. The breadth of cultural and culinary experiences, diversity of landscapes, friendly faces and you couldn’t forget the affordability. Now before I bemused by the wonders of this region, I’m drawn back to the sauna-like reality here in Siem Reap.

Exploring The Khmer Cuisine

Siem Reap, a city located in northwestern Cambodia, is known for its ancient temples, including the famed Angkor Wat. However, the city also boasts a vibrant food scene that is worth exploring. Cambodian cuisine, also known as Khmer cuisine, is a unique blend of flavors and ingredients that reflects the country's cultural heritage and history. The cuisine is influenced by neighboring countries such as Thailand and Vietnam.

Local markets

Apart from sampling the food in restaurants and street stalls, I joined a cooking class. We started by visiting a market located on the outskirts of Siem Reap. Here we saw a  wide range of fresh produce, meat, seafood, and spices. We also got to try traditional Cambodian snacks and desserts, such as sticky rice and coconut cakes.

Our host mentioned about the nearby lake, Tonle Sap, and how the people living around the lake  rely heavily on fishing for their livelihoods and as a source of food. Fish from the lake are a major part of the Cambodian diet and are also exported to neighboring countries.

The fishing communities around Tonle Sap use a variety of techniques to catch fish, including traps, nets, and hooks. One traditional fishing technique used on the lake is called cha, which involves setting up a large trap made of bamboo and mesh that can catch hundreds of fish at once.

Flavors

Back in the kitchen, our host explained the differences between Khmer, Thai, and Vietnamese cuisine. Here are some notable differences between Khmer, Thai, and Vietnamese cooking:

1. Flavors: Khmer cuisine tends to be milder in flavor compared to Thai and Vietnamese cuisine. Cambodian dishes usually feature a balance of sweet, sour, and salty flavors, with less emphasis on spicy heat compared to the bold and spicy notes in Thai cuisine, while  Vietnamese cuisine also emphasizes bold flavors, but with more focus on herbs and spices like cilantro, mint, and star anise.

2. Aromatics: While all three cuisines use rice and noodles as staple ingredients, they each have their own unique set of herbs, spices, and vegetables that are commonly used. For example, Thai cuisine often uses galangal, kaffir lime leaves, and  basil, while Vietnamese cuisine often features fish sauce, lemongrass, and coriander. Cambodian cuisine commonly uses local herbs such as kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass, and turmeric.

3. Prahok: Prahok is a fermented fish paste that is used as a seasoning in many Cambodian dishes. It has a strong, pungent flavor and is often mixed with other ingredients to create a flavourful dip or sauce.

   
   

I loved the use of aromatics in Khmer Cuisine, and how it adds depth, complexity, and a range of layered flavors to dishes. 

After an hour in class, I made Fish Amok, a traditional Cambodian dish that is considered one of the country's national dishes. The creamy and fragrant curry is typically made with locally caught fish, and cooked with coconut milk and a blend of aromatic herbs and spices. It is then steamed in a banana leaf, which adds a subtle earthy flavor to the dish. Served with steamed rice, the tender fish and creamy coconut broth makes for a filling and delicious meal. The cooking class was certainly a highlight in my stay in Siem Reap.

Apart from fish amok, I had two favorite dishes. For breakfast, I had Kuy Teav, a traditional breakfast dish in Cambodia consisting of rice noodles, which are handmade from rice flour, and a savory fish-based sauce made with lemongrass, turmeric, galangal, and other aromatic herbs and spices. It is typically served with a variety of fresh herbs, bean sprouts, cucumber, and banana blossom, which add texture and flavor to the dish. It is a light and refreshing meal, with a balance of fresh, tangy and aromatic flavors.

Another Khmer staple is Beef lok lak. The beef is marinated in a mixture of soy sauce, oyster sauce, and garlic, which gives it a savory and slightly sweet taste. The dish is also seasoned with black pepper, which adds a mild spicy kick and an earthy aroma. The dipping sauce, made with lime juice, black pepper, and salt, is sour and tangy, which helps to balance out the rich flavors of the beef. The crisp lettuce, sliced tomatoes, and onions add freshness and crunch to the dish, and provide a contrast to the tender beef. Overall, the flavor profile of beef lok lak is complex and well-rounded, with a combination of bold and subtle flavors that create a satisfying and delicious dish.

Photo credit: Anne Tachado

Photo credit: Anne Tachado

A Visit To Angkor Wat

Will you believe that I almost skipped visiting Angkor Wat? Due to my work schedule, I had to miss the famous sunrise tour and opt for a midday tour - on a 37 degree day. I wasn’t sure if I could handle the heat but I don’t want to have regrets.  It turned out to be a great decision because as soon as I stepped onto the grounds of Angkor Wat, I could feel the history and grandeur of this ancient temple complex. The limited time meant I was only able to visit five temples:  Banteay Srei, Bayon, Ta Phrom, and Ta Keo. The sheer size and craftsmanship of the ruins were breathtaking. 

My first stop was Banteay Srei, which is known as “the Citadel of Women”. The 10th-century temple features intricate carvings and red sandstone construction. Then, I  headed to Ta Phrom, which is famous for its overgrown trees and jungle-like atmosphere, with roots and vines intertwined with the stone walls. It was almost like stepping into a lost world, and it was easy to imagine the temple being forgotten and left to nature.

Photo credit: Anne Tachado

Next, I visited Bayon, which is known for its many faces carved into the stone. It was a truly surreal experience to walk among the towering pillars and gaze up at the giant faces staring back down at me. It is known for its distinctive towers, which are adorned with giant stone faces. There are 37 towers in total, each with four faces looking out in the cardinal directions. The faces are believed to represent either the Hindu god Brahma or the Buddhist deity Avalokiteshvara, and they are thought to be a representation of the king who commissioned the temple.  Bayon is considered one of the most popular and impressive temples in the Angkor complex.

Next up was Ta Keo, an unexpected stop as according to my tuk tuk driver, I’m quite a fast explorer (can’t help when it’s hot). In honesty, the heat made it challenging to climb the steep staircases. From the top, you could see the surrounding jungle and other temples in the distance.

Finally, I came to Angkor Wat, the largest and most famous temple in the area. The main temple is surrounded by a moat and features a series of towers and courtyards. The temple complex is adorned with intricate carvings, depicting scenes from Hindu mythology and Khmer history. From the intricately carved bas-reliefs to the towering spires, every detail was a testament to the ingenuity and skill of the ancient Khmer people.

As the sun disappears and the crowds begin to disperse, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe at the history and beauty I had just witnessed. The temples of Angkor Wat are truly a wonder of the world, and I was grateful for the opportunity to experience them firsthand.

Overall Thoughts

Visiting Siem Reap is an immersive experience that provides a window into the rich culture and history of Cambodia. As I wander through the temples’ intricate corridors, adorned with ancient inscriptions and carvings, I can't help but feel a profound sense of wonder and admiration for the craftsmanship of those who came before us. Khmer cuisine further reinstated my love for the diverse nature of Asian cuisine, with the vast variety of spices and fresh ingredients, creating a symphony of taste that lingers on your palate. From magnificent temple ruins to the delicious cuisine, truly there is no shortage of unforgettable experiences to be had in this vibrant city. 

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